![]() ![]() Solar and propane conversion eBooks are available at Appendix 1: Smart Charging A grill bottle or regular house sized propane system works fine. The 400 watt wind turbine with 60 watt PhotoVoltaic array and inverter would be ideal.Ī propane conversion kit can be added to eliminate gasoline usage, reduce the risk of Carbon monoxide poisoning, and clean up emissions and increase convenience. We recommend a Harbor Freight 45 watt kit(s) for this project and Sunguard 4 amp charge controller(s) (Do not use the HF included controller). We then connect a 400 – 700 watt inverter (you can use a larger one if needed) to provide the 120vac house current.Ĭonnect a solar panel (or array of solar panels) with a charge controller to the battery, to reduce engine run times. A Optima Yellow Top would a better option. This is a 12vdc quasi deep cycle that will work for this project. See Appendix 2.įor a battery, we used a Type 27 Deep cycle from Walmart. Install a ah meter like a Trimetric from Bogart Engineering between the battery and all loads and charging devices to monitor the amount of electricity generated or used. Install the belt, and adjust the tension, and tighten down the alternator.ĭepending on your alternator, you may have to install a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor between the number 1 terminal on the alternator and an ignition source to properly excite the alternator.įor enhanced charging, install an externally regulated “P” type alternator, and use a 3 stage charge regulator. Now bolt in the alternator with the two alternator bolts. ![]() The pulley will be adjusted once the alternator is installed. Then slide the pulley onto the shaft, with the key inserted, and slightly tighten the Allen screw. Next, we take the alternator bracket, and bolt it to the engine, using 4 bolts with lock washers. We used round head bolts, but next time I’d use hex head to keep the bolts from turning when tightening. ![]() Now bolt the engine to the board, with the bolt heads and a flat washer on the bottom of the board, and flat washer, lock washer, and nut on the engine legs. Generator Mounting Holes Bolting Engine to Board Then place the paper on the board, and drill the mounting holes. Poke a pencil through the mountings holes on the bottom of the engine to create your mounting hole template. Take a sheet of paper and place it on the bottom of the engine. ![]() We picked a tossed aside shelf from an old department store screw together furniture project as a base for this project. We used 4 bolts for the legs, with 2 flat washers, one lock washer, and nut for each of the leg bolts. Another 4 bolts, with lock washers for bolting the alternator bracket to the crankshaft face, and two bolts for the alternator, one with 2 flat washers, a lock washer and a nut, the other with a flat washer and a lockwasher (the case is threaded, no nut). We took the engine and the alternator to the hardware store so that we could test fit the bolts needed to assemble the project. We add an alternator bracket, a pulley, and a belt. A vertical shaft engine could also be used. These can be found used in a variety of machines used for gardening and kids go-karts. We started with a 6.5 hp horizontal shaft engine and a 60amp “P“ type alternator (GM 10SI). Derate engine specifications accordingly. Such a rating is not a good indication of usable HP in a reliable setting. Engine manufacturers usually specify HP at the very peak possible. Remember that this is 5 HP at the RPM chosen. Doubling this for alternator inefficiency and engine aging yields 4 HP. There are 746Watts per HP and dividing 1440 by 746 yields 1.93. ![]()
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